Suspension Modifications
(updated 8/27/06)
Face it, the A1 chassis is a product of late '60's early '70s technology. The rabbit was first sold in the US in 1974, and automotive technology has changed a great deal over the years. This isn't to say we're stuck with a bad design, on the contrary, the rabbit has inspired may copycats over the years. There is, however, a great deal that you can do to your car in the area of chassis dynamics that will greatly improve the way your car handles.
Here is the path you should take when upgrading your A1 vehicle:
Tie Bars
If you don't have them, get them. This is the one single thing you can do to make your car feel a million times better. There are three types of tie bars, front upper, front lower (not required on Scirocco 16v's, A2, or A3 platforms), and rear. What do they do? Well, they add a substantial amount of structural rigidity to your car, which increases handling capabilities, reduces interior rattles, and gives the car a better overall feel while driving. I have front tie bars on my car, and when jacking up the front, the rear tires come off the ground first!
The upper front bar is what most usually go for first, since it is visible with the hood open, and it looks cool. It also makes a big difference in how the car feels, but doesn't quite have the same effect as the lower tie bar. There are a couple of versions, the most common being the Neuspeed type, which is a dual rod type that ties into both the strut tower nuts in the engine compartment. Autotech sells a different version that is a single bar that attaches using the same strut tower nuts, and has the added benefit of having an adjusting point in the middle of the bar. I feel the Neuspeed is the best design, since it adds more twisting resistance. They get in the way when working on the engine, but remove easily enough to where is isn't really a problem. Others prefer the Autotech version because of the adjusting point, which prevents pre-loading of the suspension when installed.
The lower front bar also makes a dramatic difference when installed on a Rabbit. Once again, there are a couple of versions, the first being the Neuspeed version that attaches to the front A-arm mounting points using longer bolts. The second, and most likely superior version is sold by Autotech, and not only attaches to the front of the A-arms, but to the rear mounting points also, therefore providing a "triangulation" effect. I have the Neuspeed version, and it works fine. NOTE: be VERY careful when installing either version. The front mounting points bolt into a nut that is contained inside the front of the car's lower unit-body. If these nuts are stripped out, I would hate to think what would be necessary to correct the situation - most likely cutting and welding.
The rear tie bar works on the same principal as the front upper tie bar, meaning that it ties the two strut towers together in a single rigid structure. There's more debate on the worth of these bars. Some of the most knowledgeable people in the VW tuning industry think they are a complete waste of money (Techtonics doesn't even sell them), and most claim the only reason they are made is because the typical VW owner just wants to have them on their car. Once again, there are a couple of versions. The Neuspeed version attaches to the tops of the strut tower and triangulates back to the passenger side bumper mounting points. The Autotech version is merely a single bar that attaches to the strut towers. The Neuspeed version most likely provides some benefit because of the triangulation, but they are expensive ($199). The Autotech version is cheap ($90), but most likely does nothing. I recently installed a Neuspeed rear strut tie bar on my car, and although it does look quite cool, I think the money is best spent elsewhere.
Shocks & Springs - Why you shouldn't lower your car
You can blow a great deal of money on shocks and springs, and then realize you've made your car unbearable to drive on a daily basis. There are plenty of options: lowering springs, adjustable shocks, and coil-overs to name a few. I kept it simple and used Bilstien HD shocks and Neuspeed SofSport springs. Why didn't I get radical and go for adjustable Spax/Koni shocks and lowering springs? Because I want to enjoy driving my car, not have my dental work shaken out of my skull. In addition, A1 cars don't have as much suspension travel as the A2 or A3 cars, so it is best to keep what little you have. In my opinion, lowering springs make a bad problem worse, and doesn't really add much to the overall handling of the car.
If you have an A1 car, it's most likely got more than 100k on the odometer, and well, I bet it rattles like a can of marbles. Making the suspension stiff only makes it worse. SofSport springs are designed to work with Bilstien HD shocks, and while the ride is firm, it isn't harsh in everyday use. The suspension will not bottom out with this setup - believe me I've tried. Yes, Rabbits look cool when they are lowered and have 15 or 16" rims on them. If you live in California where it never freezes and the roads are smooth, then perhaps going with the lowering springs will be okay, but for the rest of us we have potholes and frost heaves to deal with.
Now a word on shocks & struts. I know Bilstien inserts are expensive, but they come with a REAL lifetime guarantee and the company will honor if you have your original sales receipt. Bilstiens will last well over 100k miles, so there most likely are not many takers on the offer. Listed below are the primary suppliers of shocks for A1 vehicles:
Bilstien: The best there is. If you can afford them, get them. HD's recommended for everyday use, Sports for racing or if you are a masochist. Also available in Touring Class, a cheaper twin-tube design
Koni: Very good, but a twin-tube design that won't last as long as Bilstien's monotube system. Adjustable, but expensive. The softest setting will still be somewhat stiffer than stock shocks.
Tokico: Comes in two types, HP and Illumina - both are twin-tube units. The HP's are not adjustable, with the Illumina's range varying between stock and full race. HP's are less than Bilstien HD's, and are valved somewhere between HD's and Sports. Illuminas offer a tremendous adjustment range, but are very expensive - up around $170 each. Tokico also provides a lifetime guarantee, but you have to ship the dead units to them for inspection - if they find that you've gripped the shaft with a pipe wrench (even when removing the bad one), you're out of luck. Everyone I've talked to like these shocks and have few complaints.
Boge: Buy these if you don't have extra cash, but expect to replace them later on. Pro Gas are progressive rate, Turbo Gas are twin-tube low pressure. If you use lowering springs, use the Turbo Gas. Pro Gas should only be used with stock-height springs, and used in sets of four.
KYB: A good choice if price is the most critical element in your selection. I had a set of these on my car years ago, and they lasted for about three years of heavy use.
Gabriel/Monroe, etc.: Probably okay for your beater commuter vehicle.
Coil-overs
One way to lower your car without sacrificing suspension travel is to fit coil overs to your car. Coilovers have threaded spring pearches that can be raised and lowered by turning them like a large nut. Significant lowering/raising requires a good number of turns to make the adjustment, so it's not something you can do in five minutes, and you must either count the turns, or measure the height of the car from corner to corner to make sure you have everything adjusted properly. A set of quality full threaded coilovers will set you back over $1,000, but if you absolutely must have the lowered look, this is the way to go. You can also purchase "sleeve" kits that have a threaded collar that fits on your strut assembly. The benefit to this setup is you can typically specify what type of shocks you want along with spring rates. This configuration is often used by individuals who autocross their Rabbits. A word of caution though - there can still be issues with tire rubbing using coilovers. If you lower the car enough, the inside of the tire could rub on the lower spring perch, while the outside of the tire could rub on the fender. To avoid rubbing against the perch, wheel spacers or wheels with a different offset may be required.
Some popular varieties of coilover kits are made by:
1) FK - Available from AMI Motorsports
2) Weitec - Available from Rapid Parts
3) H&R - Available from Eurosport Accessories
4) Patec - Available from Dynamic Motorworks
5) KW - Available from ESE Tuning
For "sleeved" configurations, Shine Racing is an excellent choice. Many racers swear by this configuration because you can select your own shocks and springs.
Sway Bars
If you have a Scirocco 16v or GTI, you have sway bars from the factory that work well enough. If not, then adding these bars will make a huge difference in performance. Word of advice: buy the tie bars first, then do the shocks and springs before you plunk down your cash for sway bars.
Before buying sway bars, stop and think about what you want to do with your car. If you're just looking for something to make a daily driver handle well, don't get too carried away with bar size. 22mm fronts and 25mm rears are a good compromise. You can go larger on the rear and up it to 28mm, but you most likely won't care for the results - steering that follows every crack or dip in the pavement, and what some would call severe oversteer - meaning the back half of the car will end up leading the front half.
There are several types of bars, and as usual, Neuspeed and Autotech make the most common types. I have the Neuspeeds because they seemed to be of the best quality, and are installed using the stock mounting points. Autotech markets both hollow and solid bars, and they claim the hollow bars have similar stiffness but much less weight than the solids. The most radical part of their design is on the rears, where they have a sliding mounting point (which they refer to as the "popsicle") at the back mounting position. The theory seems to work, but I've heard complaints that they make a great deal of rattling noise after years of use.
Polyurethane Bushings
If you are looking for a slight advantage for autocross, or just want some extra road "feel," polyurethane bushings will help somewhat. These bushings replace the rubber ones on the front a-arms, and limit the amount of deflection of the front suspension during hard cornering. These will increase the amount of road noise, and will also leave you feeling every little bump in the road, so be sure that you are willing to make the trade-off. The material comprising the cheaper versions can be too hard, which will make an audible creaking noise, which can be quite annoying. This creaking will be transmitted into the body of the vehicle, which makes it very loud, and can make your car sound like it's ready for the scrapyard. Autotech makes a set of bushings that they claim will not creak. In any event, when installing these bushings, make sure you lube them generously with a non water-soluble grease. I ignored this simple step, and mine creaked llike an old man on cold winter days. A popular manufacturer of urethane inserts is Prothane.
