Turbocharger Installation Procedure

Below are links to copies of the original Callaway Turbo Systems installation instructions (warning:  these are large files and will take some time to download):

Stage 1 Installation
Intercooler Installation
Microfueler Installation
Llambda Enrichment Installation
Water Injection Installation
Parts List/Overall Diagram
Turbo Oil Leaks

Before reading this, be sure to look over the Turbo Basics page.

To start your installation, first decide whether or not you want to change your head gasket.  It is highly recommended that you do so, so these instructions will include this step.  These instructions assume that the motor is still in the car.   Pictures and additional elaboration will be provided as time permits - as of now, this is a "first pass" at getting this procedure documented.  I regret not having an available electronic camera during the installation procedure, so sketches and other notations will have to do for now.

Special tools required for this installation:

READY?

1) Raise front of car on ramps or jack stands.

2) Remove passenger side driveshaft.

3) Remove exhaust from catalytic converter forward.

4) Drain engine oil and coolant

5) Remove oil pan.

6) Remove intake plumbing.  Leave attached vacuum hoses in place and hanging for now.

7) Remove the head as outlined in the workshop manual.  Be certain to follow the proper sequence when removing the head bolts - start with the two middle bolts, and proceed in an "x" pattern outward from the center.  

Note:  It is not necessary to remove the exhaust and intake manifolds until the head is off the car, but do yourself a favor and have someone help you lift it out of the engine compartment.  Once the head is out, protect engine against foreign objects by covering with a clean rag.  

8) Remove exhast manifold.

9) Install turbo exhaust manifold on head.

10) Attach turbo to exhaust manifold.

11) Attach CO test pipe to manifold if available.

12) Install new oxygen sensor to turbo exhaust manifold if provisions are available.

13) Attach turbo oil line to turbocharger.  Orient to face the front of the engine when installed in final position.

14) Attach vulco hose to turbo intake and compressor side and secure with hose clamps.

15) Rotate engine where the number 1 piston is at TDC.

16) Place new head gasket on engine - make sure the stamped numbers on the gasket face up.

17) Lift head assembly back onto engine (trust me, get someone to help out here) and torque head bolts according to normal procedure.

18) Measure a point at the back of the engine block 2 3/4" from the bottom lip of the block, and 6" from the transmission side of the block.

19) Place a thin sheet of plexiglass or equivalent up into the engine between the block and the crankshaft to protect the engine while drilling.

20) Drill 9/16" hole using 90 degree airdrill.

21) Clean drilled area of all metal shavings.

22) Depending on how your oil drain system is configured, tap the 9/16" hole with appropriate threads and install fitting.

23) Install oil drain fitting on turbo.

24) Install oil drain line between turbo and block fitting.

25) Install passenger side driveshaft.

26) Install oil pan.

27) Remove oil temperature sender from the top of the filter base.

28) Install provided fittings into filter base and attach turbo oil supply line (shown below).  Use teflon tape or equivalent to seal fittings.  If you wish to retain the oil temperature sender, you will need a "T" fitting with one male and two female connections.  I sourced mine from ATP Turbo.

29) Install compressor discharge tube from turbocharger compressor outlet to intake manifold (shown below). Secure with hose clamps.

30) Install compressor inlet tube from fuel distributor to turbocharger inlet.  Secure with hose clamps.

31) Attach idle air bypass valve (valve located at the back of the intake manifold) outlet to turbo compressor outlet tube.  This will insure stock idle characterisitcs during warm-up.

32) Attach charcoal canister purge valve and a/c boost valve tubes to turbo inlet tube.  Picture is taken from drivers position into the engine compartment. 

33) Install check valve on the crankcase breather line (Shown below).  This prevents pressurized air from being forced into the oil pan!  Very important!

34) Install boost gauge according to supplied instructions.  Insert "T" fitting on intake manifold before the check valve that leads to the ventilation system vacuum tubing.

35)  Install 1 lb normally open pressure switch (mine shown in photo below) in line with the lambda temperature switch.  Run one side to ground, the other side should tie into the side of the temperature switch with the brown/red wire.  Splice the brown/red wire into the same side of the pressure switch.

36)  Replace spark plugs with Bosch WR5DC (Bosch Super) WR5DP (Bosch Platinum) or WR5CS (Bosch Silver).  These are idential to the stock recommended plugs, but they are two notches colder.  This is a very important step, since if you use the stock WR7DC, you will get some serious pinging.

37)  Install exhaust downpipe to turbo and catalytic converter.

38)  Check all fittings for tightness, make sure everything is put back in it's proper spot.

39)  Refill all fluids, clear the area, start the engine and allow to warm up to operating temperature.

40)  Set timing to 0 degrees BTDC.  If you are willing to install a knock sensing ignition system, then your timing can be advanced to a stock setting.

Take it easy on your first test drive.  Drive a few miles and listen for any problems, such as exhaust leaks.  Check the engine for oil leaks especially where the turbo oil lines were installed.  If everything checks out, and the engine is up to operating temperature, you're ready to go!

If there are ANY signs of detonation, keep off the boost.  Run out the tank of gas you have (octane does not "average out" in a gas tank) and fill up with at least 91 octane unleaded.  If that still does not solve the problem, check to see if your timing is set correctly (zero degrees).

If that still doesn't do it - and this is recommended anyway - find a distributor vacuum canister that has two vacuum fittings on it.  These can usually be found on older 1.7 liter engines.  Leave the left connection open, and hook the right connector up to the existing vacuum hose.  This will add a "boost timing retard" feature, meaning that the timing will retard whenever the car goes on boost.  This will also allow you to advance your timing up a bit (to about 3 degrees BTDC), therefore improving overall operation of the engine.  You don't have to replace the entire distributor - the vacuum canister is attached with two screws, and the actuator just hooks into the body of the distributor.